by Air
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Many people will choose to take internal flights if they are travelling to multiple destinations in Peru. Although distances are large they are not overly so, but the terrain makes flying by far the most practical option, particularly if traversing the country East-West eg. from Lima to Iquitos when the formidable twin barriers of the Andes and the Amazon basin make land transport nigh on impossible.
There are numerous Peruvian airlines that offer internal routes in the country with Lima acting as a hub for most destinations. Routes include Lima to Arequipa, Chiclayo, Cusco, Iquitos, Juliaca-Puno, Piura, Pucallpa, Tacna and Trujillo among others. There are direct flights between Arequipa and Cusco and from Cusco to other destinations.
The major airlines include Aero Continente (Tel: +51 (0)1-431-6700 - Lima office), and Lan Perú (Tel: +51 (0)213-8200). Smaller competitors such as Aero Condor (Tel: +51 (0)1-614-6000) offer short range hops between cities and intriguing flights over the Nasca desert where you can see the famous lines in all their glory. TACA Peru (Tel: +51 (0)1-511-8222 - Lima office) offers only one internal flight (between Cusco and Lima) but does have connections from Lima to other cities in South America.
Departure tax of USD5 is payable on domestic flights, with USD28 payable on international departures.
by Train
That Peru has a rail system at all is a triumph of engineering. This is some of the most arduous and changeable territory in the world yet it didn't stop Victorian-era European expats from leaving their mark on the country in some of the most spectacular train routes in the world. Although passenger trains were re-established in the late 1990s on many routes the state owned rail company ENAFER was forced to downsize just a few years later.
As a result some of the best rail journeys such as the spectacular Lima to Huancayo route, which travelled from the coast to the High Andes via the highest passenger train station in the world, are no longer running regularly. There is a sporadic service running once a month over this route, although it only seems to run through tourist months. Whether this will continue to be the case is open to conjecture as the line has closed completely to passenger traffic on several occasions, only to re-open seemingly on a whim. If you want to travel this route you are advised to check at Lima's Palacio Gobierno rail station from where the train departs as to the current status of the service. The most recent schedule saw the train leaving Lima on the last Friday of each month through summer and, if running, it is likely to be booked up with rail enthusiasts well in advance.
Luckily private companies like Peru Rail have preserved some of the other routes in the country and stocked them with clean and newly liveried rolling stock that makes a train ride in the country a tourist attraction in itself, as well as a great way to get around. Most notable on Peru Rail's route roster is the trip from Cusco to Machu Picchu - the so-called Inca Route - a four hour journey to one of the new order of World Wonders. A return trip costs USD101.15 for a seat in the observation carriage, which has full windows all round. Cheaper, although still comfortable "backpacker" seats are USD65.45 for the same trip. You can catch other Andean routes through the company, between Arequipa and Lake Titicaca and to the Colca Canyon, home of the famous condor. Phone PeruRail's Arequipa office on Tel: +51 (0)54-21-5350.
by Bus
Bus transport is by far the most widely used form of transport for both local and inter-city journeys in Peru. Each city has its own urban network made up of private mini-bus or coach firms. In all instances this type of transport is extremely cheap but can be very crowded especially at rush hour.
There are literally countless firms providing longer distance transport as well. The most respectable in the country include Civa and Ormeño, both of which operate modern, air conditioned buses with good facilities.
At the other end of the scale are the colectivos; private coaches and mini-buses often operated by owner-drivers and which ply routes between adjacent cities - rarely offering longer-distance routes. Although these are extremely cheap - often a few Peruvian dollars will get you to the next city - they are also extremely uncomfortable.
Somewhere in between are the majority of coach firms. Vehicles at this level are often somewhat older and can be in a poor state of repair. Although comfortable for journeys of up to a few hours in length, and having ticketed seating, you'll find long distance travel proves uncomfortable in these and is recommended only for those really seeking to see Peru on a shoestring.
Most tourists should stick to travel with the bigger coach firms, such as Civa (Tel: +51 (0)1-426-4926) and Ormeño (Tel: +51 (0)1-472-1710) as mentioned above. On their flagship routes companies like this offer superb, air-conditioned, modern coaches with facilities such as refreshments and toilet. Longer journeys may even have sleeper berths. Costs for such luxury can be double the price of a standard bus, but is generally considered worth it. Popular tourist routes such as Lima to Huancayo, up and down the Amazonian highway and to Arequipa are generally served with the better quality buses. The other main kind of bus are the caleteros that serve more localised areas and will stop at every town en route, though they generally travel long-distance.
Visitors should note that it is common practice for private operators to run from their own garage, hence departure points for various companies and/or routes are not always the same. You should ask at your hotel for advice and it is a good idea to buy your ticket in advance directly from the station so you are in no doubt as to its location prior to departure.
by Car
Although car hire and travel is possible in Peru it is not recommended. Long distances and varying terrain mean that journeys can take a long time to complete, even those that seem easy on paper. You'll also find that Peruvian roads vary in condition from an excellent minority to a generally appalling majority, which mirrors the driving habits of the local population as well. You also have to take into account the high prices of car hire in the country.
If you do choose to drive it is recommended that you hire a vehicle rugged enough to cope with the vagaries of Peru's roads and terrain. Although this isn't necessary if you are sticking to the major highways to get to anywhere more interesting it will definitely be appreciated.
The main road in Peru is the Pan-American highway, which runs north-south down the entire length of the nation. Sections of the road are tolled but it is worth paying for the convenience. Other highways include the Central Highway, which connects Lima to the Central Highlands and Pucallpa; the Inca Highway which connects Piura to Puno; and the partially completed marginal jungle highway which follows the eastern border from north to south.
Speed limits are rarely adhered to by locals, but for what they're worth are: 100km per hour (62mph) on highways, 80km per hour (49mph) on extra-urban main roads and 50km per hour (31mph) in built up areas. You will find that road signs are sporadic so drive cautiously according to your surroundings and don't exceed what you assume to be the speed limit. While locals might get away with speeding, hire cars or foreign registered cars will attract a bit more attention from traffic police, and hefty on-the-spot fines can be administered. Drinking and driving is illegal and although a very small level of blood/alcohol is allowed it is heavily advised that you refrain from drinking completely if planning to drive later.
International car hire firms operate in the larger cities. You have to be over the age of 21 to hire a car from these and most local firms. Hiring motorbikes or mopeds is cheaper but the high traffic accident rate means it is inadvisable.
by Boat
There are a couple of notable boat routes in the Amazon basin. Passenger boats used for transport are rarely comfortable however, and tourists rarely employ boat travel for anything other than sightseeing cruises along stretches of Peru's rivers (most notably of course the Amazon near Iquitos). Private tour companies may offer more extensive cruises.
If you want to travel by boat the two most notable journeys are between Pucallpa and Iquitos and from Iquitos along the Amazon into Brazil. Both journeys are relatively slow, the former taking five days to travel between the two cities. For this reason, unless you are really keen on ferry transport it isn't advised that you employ the ferries as a serious method of transport.
